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To float properly, the dry fly must be dressed with stiff hackles and waterproofed. I prefer a Gantron-bodied, hollow deer-hair wing Caddis, in the John Kolzer pattern, but small. (John lives on the McKenzie, Blue River, Oregon. He's the kind of tyer who usually adds a note of explanation with his flies.) After taking a fish, swish the dry fly through the water to rid it of blood and slime, squeeze out the superfluous moisture with a sheet of absorbent Kleenex, then blow on the fly and dunk it in a waterproofing compound. (I use a homemade preparation: one part of solid Mucilin to three parts carbon tetrachloride, better known as cleaning fluid.) Knock off the excess, blow on the fly from behind to fluff it, and get along with your wonderful fishing. Should the trout ignore one dry-fly pattern, slip on another for size and silhouette. If that doesn't produce, why not try a nymph fished an inch beneath the surface so it bulges the water? 14A This pesky overhand knot (14A) so easily picked up when casting, will reduce your 4-pound test line to 1 pound! Best to do: Break the line and retie! Leaders seldom part, it's your knots that give first! 14B Many anglers are content to use a simple double overhand knot to make a loop (14B). This reduces your 4-pound test line to 2 pounds. Don't use it. 14C
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