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The lighter the rod the finer the wrapping thread I like to use, but this is a matter of refinement. If you use nylon, get a size from A to E; in silk from 00 to EE. See Figures 21-24 for how to assemble a rod. After you have made your rod, you'll want to take good care of it. To protect the rod and its high-standing guides, carry it in a hard case and never jam it in. A soft, compartmented cloth case will protect the rod against marring and scratching inside the rod case. Be sure the inside edge of the top of your case is smooth, otherwise in taking your rod out you may scratch its fine finish. If you treat your rod well, wiping it after you get through fishing, particularly the metal parts after each salt-water trip, it will give you a lifetime of good spinning. 21A Figure 21. To assemble a rod, first put on the tip top (21A). For a glass rod, use plastic cement. Read the instructions on the bottle and then fit the cement and the heated tip top into place. I prefer a reinforced chrome-plated tip top instead of agate, which is more expensive and heavier. Cheaper, imitation agate guides crack quite easily. Should you be making a combination fly and spinning rod which has a reel seat at the end, attach your fly reel and then be sure the tip top and gathering guide line up with the reel seat. Space your guides correctly. Incorrect size and placement can reduce your distance by 30 per cent. 21B
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