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The mold should follow the contours of the frog's body pretty closely. If there are any holes or other imperfections, patch them with wet plaster. Do this when the plaster mold is still damp. After a few days the plaster mold will dry, and it is ready to use. You can use it as is by merely laying it on a flat surface and then filling the cavity with the liquid rubber or latex. Another way is to place a small flat wooden section over the plaster mold, drill a hole in the wooden flat for a small funnel and then fill the cavity with liquid rubber. Allow the finished lure to dry for a day or so in the plaster mold, before removing. The rubber frog now needs a hook, which can be the long-shanked hump type described in Chapter 3 for the spin bugs. Slit the belly of the frog and insert the hook so that the eye protrudes on one end at the head and the bend and point are on the opposite side. Pour some liquid rubber into the slit and let it harden for a day or so. For best results, wind the shank of the hook with nylon or silk thread before inserting it in the rubber frog. You can also use the through-wire construction, which is stronger. Here you push stainless steel wire through the frog from the mouth to the tail and form eyes on each end. The rear eye will hold a small treble hook while the front one is for tying on the line.
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